Moccasin seam sewing and trimming machine



Nov. 15, 1949 F. ASHWORTH- MOCCASIN SEAM SEWING AND TRIMMING MACHINEFiled July 23, 1947 2 Sheets-Sheet l inventor Fred Ash worfh h/sAttorney 15,1949 F. ASHWORTH 2,487,918

MOCCASIN SEAM SEWING AND TRIMMING MACHINE Filed July 23, 1947 2Sheets-Sheet 2 Inventor Fred flshworf/v By his Attorney Patented Nov.15, 1949 MOCCASIN SEAM SEWING AND TRIMMING MACHINE Fred Ashworth,Wenharn,

Mass., assignor to United Shoe Machinery Corporation, Flemington, N. J.,a corporation of New Jersey Application July 23, 1947, Serial No.763,004

4 Claims.

The present invention relates to machines for sewing together andtrimming the edges of the top piece or tongue and the side piece or vampof a moccasin or imitation moccasin type shoe and is hereinafterdescribed as embodied in an improvement over the machine disclosed inUnited States Letters Patent No. 2,284,514, granted May 26, 1942, onapplication of Joseph A. Cordeau and No. 2,387,813, granted October 30,1945, on application of Francis R. Speight.

In the machine of the patents referred to the pieces of a moccasin typeshoe upper are sewed and simultaneously trimmed by a stationary knifeclamped between the separate parts of a work support provided forguiding the moccasin pieces externally during sewing. In order to insuresmooth and effective trimming action of the knife it must be kept wellsharpened and in proper alinement and adjustment with relation to theother parts of the machine. If the moccasin pieces are composed ofextremely soft flexible material it is diflicult to obtain effectivetrimming action, the moccasin pieces engaged by the edge of the knifefrequently being deflected out of line with the knife without beingtrimmed properly.

An object of the present invention is to avoid this difficulty and toenable a uniform trimming operation to be performed simultaneously withthe sewing of a moccasin type seam, in which fine adjustment and carefulsharpening of the trimming knife are unnecessary. A further object is toimprove the construction and mode of operation of a moccasin seam sewingand trimming machine to render the machine more effective for thepurposes intended and to enable the machine to produce results andeffects not obtainable with the machine disclosed in the patentsreferred to.

To these ends the machine of the present invention has stitch formingand work feeding devices together with a work support and presser of theusual construction provided with work engaging surfaces disposed at anangle to each other, the presser acting to compress the work within theangle of the work support, across which angle the needle moves andwithin which there is provided a trimming knife, the knife havingimparted to it a cutting movement for insuring complete severance of astrip from the extreme edges of the moccasin pieces in such a way thatthere is little or no opportunity for the edges of the moccasin piecesto be deflectedout of the path of the knife Accordingly, the trimmingaction is less dependent upon the use of a well-sharpened knife and auniform result may be obtained under a wider range of conditions andwith softer materialthan is possible with a stationary knife.Preferably, the knife is constructed tooperate with a chopping action onthe moccasin edges. In the illustrated form of this feature the knife isarranged to act against a chopping block mounted in the work support.

These and other features of the invention are embodied in the devices,combinations and arrangements of parts hereinafter described andclaimed, the advantages of which will readily be understood from thefollowing description taken in connection with the accompanying drawingsin which,

Fig. 1 is a view in side elevation looking from the right of theoperating parts of a moccasin seam sewing and trimming machine embodyingthe features ofthe present invention;

Fig. 2 is a detail view in side elevation on an enlarged scale inpartial section of the work support, presser and stitch forming devicesof a machine similar to that illustrated in Fig. 1 but of modifiedconstruction, taken in'the positions of the parts assumed during thefeeding movement of the work; I

Fig. 3 is a similar view of the same parts illustrating the shearingaction of thetrimming knife in the machine of Fig. 2;

Fig. 4 is a plan view of the parts illustrated in Figs. 2 and 3;

Fig. 5 is a sectional view in side elevation simi lar to that of Figsr2and 3 of some of the parts including the form of trimming knifeillustrated in Fig. 1, taken during the feeding movement of the moccasinpieces in the machine;

Fig. 6 is a similar View of the parts illustrated in Fig. 5 taken duringthe trimming action of the knife;

Fig. 7 is a partial sectional plan view on an enlarged scale of theparts illustrated in Fig 6;

and v Fig 8 is a perspective view on an enlarged scale of the knifeillustrated in Figs. 1, and 5 to 7, inclusive.

The machine of the drawings is similar to that of the Cordeau andSpeight patents above referred to and is adapted to operate on beveledged moccasin pieces comprising a top piece or tongue and a vamp orside piece indicated respectively at 2 and t. During the sewingoperation a seam is inserted throughthe registering bevel surfaces ofthe moccasin pieces with the stitches exposed only at the outer surfacesby lockstitch forming devices including a curved hook needle 6, a workpenetrating and feeding awl 8, a shuttle l0, an external work support 12and an internal presser l4, both of which latter are provided withcomplemental work engaging surfaces disposed at angles to each other andextending in the direction of work feed, the re-entrant angle beingprovided in the work lsupport.

During operation of the machine the presser compresses the moccasinpieces operated upon between the work engaging surfaces of the worksupport and releases the pieces-during feeding movements of the awl.Outward movement of the presser to release the moccasin pieces from theangle between the workengaging surfaces of the work support is along aline approximately bisecting the angle. The angle between the workengaging surfaces being less than 90,vcausesthe moccasin pieces to becrowded firmly into the angle with a wedging action when the pressermoves into the angle.

In the machine of the patents noted, the edges of the moccasin piecesaretrimmed' by a stationary knife during feeding movements. Not onlydoes the resistance offered by the knife tend to retard the'feedin'gmovement of the moccasin pieces but also there is a likelihood that theex- "treme edges 'of the moccasin pieces when preparedwith a sharpbevel-will become displaced by "engagement with the knife and as aresult will not be trimmed uniformly.

To avoid improper trimming action of the 'knife in the machine of thepresent invention, the knife is mounted for movement across the angle ofthe work support outside the seam line. In the illustrated form of thisfeature trimming takes place'while the moccasin'pieces are com- "pressedby the presser in timed relation to the operation of the stitchformingdevices between feeding movements. During work feed the knife "isentirely withdrawn from engagement with the moccasin pieces so thatthere is no'retarding ef- .fect on the feeding movements.

Referring more "particularly to the drawings, :thetrimming knifeillustrated in'Fig. 2 consists *ofan'arcuate blade 16 securedto asegment 68 in which the needle 6 is clamped. The arcuate portion'of'theknife I6 is arranged substantially "concentricallytoa "stud' 20 aboutwhichthe seg- .ment l3 oscillates. The cutting'edgeof the knifeextends'alongtheangle of" the work support and is spaced by a shortangular distance fromthe point'of'the needleto insure-entry of theneedle into the. moccasin pieces before the-knife engages Itheir edges.Withthis arrangement'there is no possibility for the material of themoccasin pieces -becoming so distorted or displaced by the knife ithatslippage occurs to cause the needle to form its'own perforation in'themoccasin-pieces outside that cut by the awl. Thus, interference with'the sewing operations is avoided.

The knife It operates with a chopping action .on the edges of themoccasin pieces and to support the edges. of the moccasin piecesagainstthe thrust of the knife and toinsure'completesever- ,ance of av stripindicated at 22in Fig. l-t-he' work support is provided with'asupporting strut 24 intersecting an opening 23 through whichthencefdleand knife pass during operation of "the ma- ,chine. Oppositethe strut 24 there is a similar 7 strut 26 engaging theuppermostsurfacesof the .moccasinto hold it in place. The corners. ofthese struts which. are closest to the apex of the angle iinthe worksupport are provided with sharpened edges, to improve the shearingaction. Between the point where the knife 16 is secured to the segmentand the cutting edge of the knife, the knife bears along its outerarcuate surface against a shoulder 28 formed on a needle guide 30 whichis actuated toward and from the work support with the needle.

With certain types of work, particularly where extremely flimsymaterials are being operated upon, instead of employing a knife whichoperates with a shearing action against a strut on the --work support,it is preferable to employ a knife which engages a chopping block forsupporting the edges of the moccasin pieces against the thrust of theknife, the extreme edges of the moccasin pieces being nipped off betweenthe knife and chopping block in timed relation to the operation of thestitch forming devices. A machine embodying this form of chopping knifeis illustrated in Figs. 1 and 5 to 8, inclusive. In this'machine theknife consists of a blade 32 formed integrally withthe needle guide asbest shown in Fig. 8. The needle guide is in the form of ablock 34having a needle guiding passage 36 and perforations 38 for receivinglocating pins "on a needle guide carrier 4|] constructed and actuated ina manner more fully described "in United States Letters Patent No.'1;169',909, granted-February 1, 1916. The needle guide is clamped tothe carrier by a 'screw entering a threaded opening 44 in the needleguide (Fig. 8).

The knife 32 acts against a fiber chopping block it mounted within arecess on a surface of the Work support in line with the path of*movement of the knife. With this arrangement-the knife will severlightweight flimsy edges-on the moccasin pieces even though the cuttingedge 'of the knife becomes somewhat dulled. Furthermore, with flimsymaterialsthecompression of the work by the 'presser'causesthe edges ofthe material to bulge slightly in a rearward direction into the opening23 through whichtheknife acts so that when the compression'is released adis- "tinct concavity is formed alongthe incised edge surfaces. This isadvantageous in'theproduction of ornamental effects not possible-with astationary knife.

downwardly by a yielding'force only-atthe'time 50 at the end of itscutting stroke. "chine of Patent No. 1,l69;909,theneedleguide thetrimmin knife engages the choppingblock Asin the 'macarrier at isactuated by a pinion 48 meshing with the gear teeth on the hub of'thecarrier. The 55' "paving rack teeth at one end-engaging the pinionpinion is rotated by a bell crank 50(see Fig. 1)

an'da cam roll 52 at the otherend-engag'ing a slot 54 in a cam on asewingshaft of the machine. The cam slot is shaped tofit the cam rollthroughoutthe major portion of its length but along that portionengaging the "roll while'the trimming knife is acting the slot iswidenedso that the mechanism may move until arrested by engagement ofthe knife with the chopping block.

To provide yielding actuation fo the knife of the illustrated machine atthis time the'bell crank 5!} is connected to one end 'of a tensionspring '55, the other end of which is secured to the machine frame.

To insure firm compression of the moccasin pieces within theangle'between the work engaging surfaces of the work support while thetrimming knife is acting,'the presser I4 is formed in the mannerillustrated in Fig. l with a longitudinal slot 56 "and'serrationsiflalong' its'angularly disposed work engaging surfaces. The serrations 53act on the moccasin pieces to secure a firm bite on their surfaces.Movement of the presser into the angle of the work support causes thetwo halves of the presser above and below the slot 56 to move yieldinglytoward each other, carryin the moccasin pieces along with them andforcing them to their limit of possible movement into the apex of theangle of the work support within the path of the trimming knife.

The nature and scope of the invention having been indicated and aparticular embodiment having been described what is claimed is:

1. A machine for sewing and trimming moccasin seams having stitchforming devices including a curved hook needle, a needle guide, a worksupport having work engaging surfaces extending in the direction of workfeed and disposed with relation to each other to form an angle acrosswhich the needle moves, and a presser having a tip formed with angularlydisposed work engaging surfaces arranged to compress the moccasin piecesoperated upon between the work engaging surfaces of the work support, incombination with a knife secured to the needle guide and arranged to actacross the angle formed by the work engaging surfaces of the worksupport to sever a strip from the extreme edges of the moccasin piecesoutside the line of the seam.

2. A machine for sewing and trimming moccasin seams having stitchforming devices including a curved hook needle, a needle guide, a worksupport having work engaging surfaces extending in the direction of workfeed and disposed with relation to each other to form an angle acrosswhich the needle moves, and a presser having a tip formed with angularlydisposed work engaging surfaces arranged to compress the moccasin piecesoperated upon between the work engaging surfaces of the Work support, incombination with a knife secured to the needle guide and arranged to actacross the angle formed by the work engaging surfaces of the worksupport to sever a strip from the extreme edges of the moccasin piecesoutside the line of the seam, and a chopping block in the work supportagainst which the knife acts at the end of its cutting stroke.

3. A machine for sewing and trimming moccasin seams having stitchforming devices including a curved hook needle, a needle guide, a

work support having work engaging surfaces extending in the direction ofwork feed and disposed with reiation to each other to form an angleacross which the needle moves, and a presser having a tip formed withangularly disposed work engaging surfaces arranged to compress themoccasin pieces operated upon between the work engaging surfaces of thework support, in combination with a knife secured to the needle guideand arranged to act across the angle formed by the Work engagingsurfaces of the work support to sever a strip from the extreme edges ofthe moccasin pieces outside the line of the seam, a chopping block inthe work support against which the knife acts at the end of its cuttingstroke, and mechanism for actuatin the knife including a spring forurging the knife against the chopping block at the end of its cuttingstroke. a

4. A machine for sewing and trimming moccasin seams having stitchforming devices including a curved hook needle, a Work support havingWork engaging surfaces extending in the direction of work feed anddisposed with relation to each other to form an angle across which theneedle moves, and a presser movable toward and from the angle of theWork support approximately along a line bisecting the angle to compressthe moccasin pieces operated upon between the work engaging surfaces ofthe work support, in combination with a knife acting across the angleformed by the work engaging surfaces of the work support while themoccasin pieces are compressed by the presser to sever a strip from theextreme edges of the moccasin pieces, said work support having anopening into which the extreme edges of the moccasin pieces may bulge atthe point of operation of the knife under compression of the presser.

FRED ASHWORTH.

REFERENCES CITED The following references are of record in the file ofthis patent:

UNITED STATES PATENTS Number Name Date 2,222,972 Ashworth Nov. 26, 19402,284,514 Cordeau May 26, 1942 2,337,631 Whitaker Dec. 28, 19432,387,813 Speight Oct. 30, 1945

